A great turning point in the evolution from pocket watches to watches. Among Patek Philippe’s many works, the officer’s watch style with a tiltable metal protective back cover has not only always been a loyal customer base, but also Became one of PatekPhilippe’s unbreakable traditional features. In the past, during the peak period, Patek Philippe had a number of models including Ref. 5022, 5053, 5054, 5059, and 4860, which were generally classified as military watches. Today, these models have been discontinued under the brand watch process, making the only Calatrava Ref. 5153 that continues this classic style more independent and elegant.
Like other special models known as ‘Military Officers’ Watches’ in the past, the Calatarva 5153 watch has many characteristics that are completely different from other general Calatrava: straight straight lugs at the ends, and screw-lock screws to fix the strap. They all have the characteristics of military watches; the special Turban Crown is also a common style of military watches; the ancient round pot-shaped case is an Office-style case exclusive to military officers during the war; of course, the most Importantly, in addition to the sapphire crystal glass back, the back of the Calatarva 5153 officer’s watch is also equipped with a tiltable metal back cover (hinged dustcover), a special design inherited from previous military watches to protect the surface.
The Patek Philippe Officer’s Watch Ref. 5153 can be regarded as the ultimate masterpiece, because the production process of the metal back cover is very challenging. The polishing of the case only takes several days for the craftsman to carefully polish and adjust it.
Of course, each Patek Philippe watch has its own unique style and allusions. However, to elaborate on the legend of the Calatarva 5153 officer-style watch, it implies two extremely romantic features that make it more distinctive. Let’s go back in time. Since Peter Henlein, a watchmaker in Nuremberg, Germany in the 16th century, created a prototype of a pocket watch called the ‘Nuremberg Egg’, pocket watches have gradually become popular in Europe until the early 20th century. They are still the favorite timepieces and accessories of high society. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a few watchmakers began to try to make ‘watches’ that could be worn on the wrist. At present, there is no dispute over who made the first watch in the watch industry, but most of the early watches were converted from smaller pocket watches, with linear lugs or holes punched on both sides of the pocket watch. Watches used to fit leather or metal straps that can be worn on the wrist were born.
Calatrava 5153G officer watch, 18K white gold case, 38 mm diameter, hour, minute, center seconds, date, 324 SC self-winding movement, 45 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal and back case, military officer Metal back cover, alligator strap.
Earlier pocket watches that were chained with a key and opened with a hinged case bottom cover revealed another inner cover. This cover is equipped with a key window, so that when the watch owner inserts the key on the chain, he will not accidentally touch the other parts of the movement, which will affect the operation. After the invention of the mechanism of winding the crown, even if there is no need to wind the key again, many high-end pocket watches still retain this rear cover. On the one hand, it prevents dust and moisture from invading the movement. On the other hand, it can be used as an engraved place for engraving the movement data or the name, quotes or family crest of the watch owner. As for the front of the pocket watch, a metal cover is needed. Before the sapphire water paid tribute to the war-fighting military watchmakers, the mineral glass used in pocket watches was arguably the most fragile part of timepieces. Therefore, both hunting and semi-hunting watches were designed with metal covers to protect Mirror. Generally, the winding crown of the topless pocket watch is at twelve o’clock, while the hunting watch is located at nine o’clock because of the cover hinge, and the winding crown is at three o’clock, which is most suitable for adding a strap Become a watch and continue to use it today.
Calatrava 5153J officer watch, 18K yellow gold case, 38 mm diameter, hour, minute, center seconds, date, 324 SC self-winding movement, 45 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal glass and back case, military officer Metal back cover, alligator strap.
When the ‘watch’ was first invented, it was mainly popular among women. The major watchmakers only regarded the ‘watch’ as a decorative item for women. They were not optimistic that watches could be used in male and female customers. Favorite mainstream timepiece. Later World War I brought catastrophe to mankind, but also inadvertently became the promoter of watch popularity. Frontline officers need accurate timepieces that can be easily read and read to synchronize time and accurately conduct military operations when the commander is under charge. For them wearing heavy uniforms and coats, the watch has the inherent advantage that a pocket watch cannot match. This type of watch changed from a pocket watch is called an ‘military officer’s watch’, and it has its origins because the possession of a high-priced timepiece was only the right of the upper class and officers at that time, and it was really popular until the Second World War. . The unique metal case back design of the Calatarva 5153 officer watch is a reminder of the evolution of pocket watches into watches and pays tribute to this great turning point in watchmaking history.
Another important significance of Calatarva Ref.5153 officer watch to Patek Philippe must be traced back to a longer history, to the youth of Antoine Norbertde Patek (1811-1877), the founder of Patek Philippe. Before the watchmaker fellow Franciszek Czapek founded Patek Philippe’s predecessor, Patek, Czapek & Co. in Switzerland in 1839, he was an army officer. In November 1831, Poland broke out in the national revolution against Russian occupation. He also suffered two gunshot wounds. After Poland’s defeat, he had to flee to France, and later went into exile in Switzerland. Antoine Patek, who made brilliant achievements in watchmaking, was naturalized as a Swiss citizen in 1843, but he continued to struggle for his native Poland throughout his life. In addition to funding the Polish national revolutionary movement, he believed in Catholicism and was eager to help other Polish refugees, and was therefore sealed by Pope Benedict IX as Earl.
The Calatrava Cross emblem of Patek Philippe, which has been in use since 1857, conveys the origins of Antoine Patek as a heroic officer and a devout Catholic; Calatrav Ref. 5153, which retains the character of ‘Military Officer List’, is also famous All of them show the heroic origin and achievements of the brand founder.