Omega Constellation Observatory Automatic Calendar Watch
Estimated price: no reserve price
Falling Hammer: USD 1100 (about RMB 7502)
Including commission: USD 1320 (about RMB 9002)
Attachment: Original warranty
Size: Caliber 35mm, thickness 12mm
Condition: The shell has normal use marks
Condition: Two-piece polished 14K yellow gold case, silver dial, window calendar. Cal.505 red copper movement, 24 stones, flat hairspring. The dial, case, and movement are all signed.
[Comment] The ‘good watch’ most people know, I believe it is Omega. Antique K gold constellation, whether it is horn ear, curved ear gossip or fly character, etc., I watched its price take off, 6 thousand, 8 thousand, 10 thousand, 13 thousand, 16 thousand, 18 thousand Thousand, twenty-four thousand, thirty thousand … Although this big horn ear is only a 14K gold case, it is not so cheap, and I am unprepared to start with my hand. But I do n’t have time to look at the preview. Although the dial on the auction book is in perfect condition, it does n’t look good to see the photos. But the auction company ‘as is’ the auction, I am at risk. This constellation is my only harvest in this auction. If the dial is OK, it is the return of my sleepless night.
Omega Speedmaster is one of the most outstanding chronographs in the watch industry. In addition to its expert level in the professional timekeeping field, it accompanies astronauts on many space exploration missions. And witness the legendary experience of human beings on the moon 4 times, enough to admire future generations. The Speedmaster was born in 1957 and has gone through 60 years of history. It has gone through three important stages of development: manual winding, outsourced movements and self-produced movements.
Manual winding phase
Moon watch from 1965, the first watch worn on the moon
Omega’s manual Speedmaster, especially the Speedmaster with a 321 manual chronograph movement, is the only watch that has landed on the moon. Although many other brands of watches have also traveled through space, the only watch that really set foot on the moon’s ground is the Omega Speedmaster. This detached status has remained unshakable so far. Therefore, Speedmaster is also called Moon Watch.
The manual supercars currently on the market use 1861 and 1863 manual winding movements. The Speedmaster that landed on the moon in history refers to the Speedmaster chronograph watch using the 321 chronograph movement. The 321 movement is a movement jointly developed by Omega and the famous movement manufacturer LEMANIA. It was released in 1942. This chronograph movement has a diameter of 27 mm and is controlled by manual winding, horizontal clutch and 8-toothed cylindrical wheel. After this, in 1968, the Omega 861 movement replaced the 321 movement previously carried. Later, Omega launched the advanced rhodium-plated 1861 movement and the more exquisite 1863 movement. From this, the Speedmaster began to use these two manual-winding movements.
Outsourcing movement phase
After the quartz crisis, mechanical watches were revived, and many watch factories that survived lacked a complete lineup of movements. And at the time, the bleak situation of each brand did not yet have the corresponding self-made movement, especially the self-winding chronograph movement that required a lot of manpower and material research and development. However, the market urgently needed an automatic chronograph watch. During this period, Omega found a watch factory FP (Frederic Piguet) movement factory that can provide automatic chronograph movements outside, using the FP1185 automatic chronograph movement, The core has undergone a transformation of its own style and is very distinctive.
The 1987 Speedmaster self-winding watch is the first Omega Speedmaster watch that combines an automatic mechanical movement with a lunar case.
In terms of daily wear, although the manual chronograph movement is beautiful, the power reserve of more than 40 hours needs to be wound often, which is not practical. Therefore, Omega needs to create a new automatic Speedmaster to consolidate the Speedmaster’s position in chronograph watches. Before the production of the new 9300 coaxial chronograph movement, Omega did not produce its own automatic chronograph movement. Automatic Speedmasters use outsourced movements at this stage, including ETA7750 and FP1185.
7750 automatic Speedmaster is the entry-level style of Speedmaster, the price is relatively low, plus 7750 movement is not fancy but very practical, automatic speedmaster 7750 movement continues to sell well in the watch fans circle, enduring prosperity. The Speedmaster using the FP1185 movement was the pinnacle of Speedmaster chronographs of this period.
The FP1185 movement is a self-winding chronograph movement launched by the FP movement factory in 1988. Diameter 26 mm, thickness 5.4 mm, vertical clutch, cylindrical wheel and automatic winding. This movement is both ultra-thin and luxurious while considering performance. After purchasing the 1185 movement, Omega renumbered it. Among them, Omega 3301, 3303, 3313 and other movements are twin models of 1185. And Omega replaced some of the modified 1185 movements with coaxial escapements. Compared with the original 1185 movements, the coaxial escapement version 1185 movements have overwhelming performance and durability. .
Self-produced movement stage
The era of Omega Speedmaster’s outsourced movement is also a transition period when it has accumulated strength and fully explored and tried the coaxial escapement performance. In 2007, Omega launched the 8500 self-produced coaxial movement, setting off another new revolution in watchmaking. In 2011, the Omega Speedmaster series began to incorporate Omega’s more than 10 years of coaxial escapement technology. A new self-winding chronograph movement developed based on the characteristics of coaxial escapement technology-the Omega 9300 coaxial escapement automatic chronograph movement was born.
The Omega 9300 coaxial escapement chronograph movement has a diameter of 32.5 mm and a thickness of 7.6 mm. Using vertical clutch, cylindrical wheel, silicon hairspring and other technologies, the dual barrel can provide 60 hours of power reserve, and has passed the Swiss Observatory certification. The 9300 movement uses a unique chronograph minute and hour hand coaxial design. It uses a fourth-generation coaxial escapement, an octopus-shaped escapement wheel and escapement structure, a combination of a vertical clutch and a columnar wheel. 28,800 times / hour is fully adapted to the timing needs, and the technology is fully mature.
Speedmaster ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ Watch
In recent years, Omega has equipped the new 9300 coaxial chronograph movement with a new type of housing. In addition to the ceramic case, buckle and even the ceramic dial, the Omega Speedmaster series ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ watch has been launched. It represents the highest level of self-winding chronographs in the horological world. Its suggested retail price is 88,700 yuan, and it is also the most cost-effective choice in selling ceramic chronograph watches.
The ceramic case of the Omega Speedmaster ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ watch has a very high level of craftsmanship. Generally, if the ceramic case is made to penetrate through, a steel case fixing ring is pressed into the ceramic case, which causes the problem of an increase in the weight of the watch. The ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ watch solves this problem very well, and the watch itself weighs only 91 grams.
Omega Speedmaster Series Moon Phase Extreme Observatory
In 2016, the Omega Speedmaster series was upgraded again, applying Omega’s most advanced chronometer chronometer movement in the industry to the upgraded version 9904 of 9300. This means that the Supermaster has since also possessed 15,000 Gaussian antimagnetic, higher accuracy and other performance, and has become the chronograph with the strongest antimagnetic ability in the watch industry.
Since the launch of the Omega Speedmaster series, it has continuously challenged its own limits, and the latest Omega 9904 Co-Axial Chronometer movement has pushed professional chronographs to a whole new level, deserving to be the most legendary chronograph watch industry.